Lake Baringo
This rear fresh water Rift Valley Lake encircled by mountains and its surface dotted by picturesque islands and hippos butting their eyelids is a spectacular sight indeed. Topping the scenic surrounds is an amazing abundance of bird life with over 450 of the 1200 bird species Native to Kenya present. For years bird watchers from all over the world have come here to glimpse the rare and beautiful feathered flyers.
Despite being listed as Kenya?s fourth Ramsar site in January 2002, Lake Baringo has been plagued with various problems over the last few years. Irrigation dams and droughts caused the water level to drop alarmingly, pulling the shore line back several hundred meters; severe siltation due to soil erosion around the seasonal luggas (creeks) has meant that water is almost always muddy; and the lake has been over fished so badly that any tilapia caught these days is never more than 15 cms long. The water level has risen again recently, but the situation is still very delicate, and with further drought expected the ecosystem remains at risk.
Lake access is easiest from Kampi ya Samaki on the lakes western shore, some15 km north of Marigat. This small, quiet town used to be a fishing village but now it depends almost entirely on tourism. Sadly the recent problems have caused visitor numbers to drop, resulting in even tougher times for the community.
It is still a lovely place to visit and locals would greatly appreciate the business.
Information
Kampi ya Samaki has traditionally charged a toll of (Kshs 200) to enter the town but this no longer seems to be the case. The nearest banking facilities are in Kabarnet about 40km west while internet access is found in Marigat post office.
Sites and Activities
Boat Rides in lake Baringo
The most popular activities around Lake Baringo are boat rides which are touted as competitively as the Maasai Mara is in Nairobi- they are boat offices all over town and literally everyone you talk to will claim to have access to a boat and be able to undercut everyone else?s price. A specialty is a trip to see fish eagles feeding; the birds? dives for fish at a whistle making for great (if slightly contrived) photo opportunities.
The most reliable trips are organized by the following:
Community Boats and Excursions (Kampi ya Samaki; per boat per hour Kshs 2,200)
Lake Baringo Club (Kampi ya Samaki; per boat per hour kshs 7000)
Roberts Camp ( Kampi ya Samaki; per boat per hour kshs 2400)
Most boats accommodate up to seven pass angers. A one hour trip allows you to cruise the shoreline while two hours allows you to checkout Parmalok Island. With three hours you can visit Ol Kokwe Island.
Shoreline Surprises
While some life in the lake is indeed struggling, crocodile populations are healthier than ever- so you best are careful when standing next to the shore. We got lost in the beauty of an early morning sunrise one day while at the water edge, and before we knew it, there were 12-15 snouts poking from the glassy surface directly in front of us- Cue speedy retreat!
While crocodiles open ( and hippos) do pose a threat, malarial mosquito?s actually pose more of a risk here- whatever you do remember your bug repellant
Bird Walks in lake Baringo
There is a constant twittering from birds in the trees around the lake, in the rushes and on the face of the escarpment near Kampi ya Samaki. Even if you are not an avid twitcher, it is hard to resist setting off on a dawn bird walk, when you have a good chance of seeing hornbills or a magnificent fish eagle in action. Lake Baringo club offers the most knowledgeable guides and charged Kshs 1100 per person froa60-90minute walk.
Roberts? Camps and Community Boats and Excursions give less rewarding walks from about Kshs 300 per person
Cultural Tours
Lake Baringo Club offers tours to Pokot, Tugen and Njemps villages close to the lake( Kshs 600 ) ; the Njemps are cousins of the masaai and live one the Ol Kokwe Parmalok Islands and around the lakeshores, mainly practicing pastrolism and fishing. You will usually be able to walk around freely and take photos but you will probably be hassled to buy handicrafts. There is additional Kshs 500 for entering each village.
Other Activities in lake Baringo Kenya
If nothing mentioned so far has floated your boat, there is even an uninhabited and uncharted ?devils island? with a fearsome reputation among the normally prosaic locals who wont go near the place at night, claiming you can see flames and hear screaming. So far no visitors have confirmed these sightings but it sounds a bit more exciting than the bird watching!
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